What is Chikankari 

Chikankari is a form of embroidery that originated in the Mughal era and is now a popular trend in the Indian ethnic fashion space. It is a delicate and intricate form of embroidery in which white thread is used on lightweight fabrics such as cotton, silk, muslin, and chiffon. Chikankari embroidery is renowned for its intricate and typically nature-inspired patterns. 

Chikankari is a traditional form of needlework that was first practiced in the Indian city of Lucknow. It is one of the most well-known techniques for embellishing textiles in Lucknow, and its name literally translates to "embroidery" (thread or wire). Chikankari-based items are mostly sold in Chowk in Lucknow. Major production hubs may be found across the city of Lucknow and the areas immediately around it.

In this blog post, we will explore the rich history and cultural significance of Chikan kurtis.

Origin and History of Chikankari 

It is possible that embroidery similar to Chikan existed in India as early as 3rd century BC which can be deduced from reference to similar embroidery work in India by Megasthenes, the famous ancient Greek historian, explorer and diplomat. However, the prevalent theory is that Chikankari embroidery, as we know it today, was introduced to Mughal courts by Persian nobles. It is said that Noor Jahan ( Nur Jahan), herself an accomplished embroiderer and a connoisseur of fashion, popularised Chikankari in India. In later years, this art flourished in Lucknow, the capital city of Uttar Pradesh,Craftspeople in Lucknow and across India continue to carry on the ancient art of Chikankari from one generation to the next.

The word "chikan" is derived from the Persian word “Chakin” which means embroidery and "kari" means work. In the early days, chikankari embroidery was done with white cotton thread on white muslin fabric. However, with time, the embroidery started to be done on different light colored fabrics, and threads of various colors started to be used. Chikankari embroidery is now done on a wide range of fabrics, including silk, cotton, and chiffon.

Traditional Techniques Used in Chikan Kurti

The traditional techniques used in chikankari embroidery involve the use of a pointed needle known as a "chikan needle." The needle is used to create intricate patterns on the fabric. The embroidery is done on the reverse side of the fabric so that the design can be traced on the front side. The fabric is then stretched on a wooden frame, and the embroidery is done by hand.

One of the most popular techniques used in Chikan embroidery is the "shadow work" technique. In this technique, the embroidery is done on the reverse side of the fabric, and the design is visible on the front side of the fabric as a shadow. 

Another popular technique used in Chikan embroidery is the "tear-drop" technique. In this technique, small tear-drop shapes are created on the fabric, and then the edges of the tear-drop shapes are embroidered with small stitches.

Popular Chikan Kurti Styles

Chikankari kurta is a versatile attire that can be worn on various occasions, from casual to formal. The kurta can be paired with jeans or leggings for a casual look or with a churidar or salwar for a formal look. There are various styles of chikankari kurta which are popular, including Anarkali style, straight cut, and A-line style. 

Anarkali style chikankari kurti is a long, flowing kurti that flares out at the bottom. It is a famous style for formal occasions such as weddings and parties. Straight cut chikankari kurta is a simple and elegant style that is perfect for casual wear. A-line style chikankari kurta is a modern take on the traditional chikankari kurta. It is a fitted kurta that flares out at the bottom, giving it a modern and chic look.

Embroidery Stitches

Chikankari embroidery is done using a variety of stitches like backstitch, chain stitch, satin stitch, and stem stitch. These stitches are used to create floral, paisley, and other traditional motifs on the fabric.

Chikankari with Gota Patti

Gota patti is a type of metallic ribbon that is often used in combination with chikankari embroidery to create a rich and opulent look. The gota patti is usually added around the neckline, sleeves, and hemline of the kurti, and it can be in gold, silver, or other metallic colors. This style of Chikan kurti is perfect for special occasions like weddings and parties, as it adds a touch of glamor to the outfit.

Chikankari with Mukaish Work

Mukaish work is a type of embroidery that involves adding tiny pieces of metallic wire to the fabric to create a shimmering effect. It is often combined with chikankari embroidery to add a touch of glamor to the kurti. The mukaish work is usually added around the neckline and sleeves of the kurti, and it can be in gold, silver, or other metallic colors. This style of Chikan kurti is perfect for formal events and occasions.

Chikankari with Sequins

Sequins are small, shiny discs that are often used in combination with chikankari embroidery to create a sparkling effect. They can be added to the neckline, sleeves, and hemline of the kurti, and they come in a variety of colors and sizes. You can add a touch of sparkle and glam to the parties with this kurti.

Chikankari with Mirror Work Fabric

Mirror work involves adding small pieces of reflective material to the fabric to create a glittering effect. It is often combined with chikankari embroidery to create a stunning and eye-catching look. The mirror work is usually added around the neckline and sleeves of the kurti, and it can be in gold, silver, or other metallic colors. Make your special occasions even more special with these type of kurtis. 

Chikan kurtis are a beautiful and elegant addition to any wardrobe. Whether you prefer the simplicity of traditional chikankari embroidery or the opulence of chikankari with gota patti, there is a style of chikankari kurti for every occasion.

Occasions to Wear Chikan Kurtis

One distinguishing feature of Chikan Kurtis is that they exude subtle elegance.

Therefore they can be worn on a variety of occasions, ranging from casual outings, to work, to formal events. Here are some of our suggestions of how and where you can wear a Chikan kurti:

Casual Outings 

Chikankari kurtis are perfect for casual outings like brunches, lunches, and shopping trips. They are comfortable, airy, and easy to wear, making them ideal for a day out with friends or family.

Festivals

Chikan kurtis are a popular choice for festivals like Diwali, Eid, and Holi. They are available in a variety of colors and designs, and the intricate embroidery adds a touch of elegance to the outfit.

Formal Events 

Chikan kurtis can also be worn to formal events like weddings, receptions, and corporate events. Chikankari kurtas with gota patti, mukaish work, and sequins are particularly suited for such occasions, as they add a touch of glamor to the outfit.

Workwear  

Due to their subtle elegance and easy on eyes look while still looking chic, Chikan kurtis have emerged as the outfit of choice for many office going women. They are comfortable, breathable, and stylish, making them a great option for daily wear.

Celebrations

Chikan kurtis are a popular choice for celebrations like birthdays, anniversaries, and housewarmings. They are available in a variety of designs and colors, and they can be dressed up or down depending on the occasion.

Religious Ceremonies

White Chikan Kurtis with white embroidery are a perfect choice for religious ceremonies like puja, havan, and aarti as they stand for purity. . They are comfortable and lightweight, making them ideal for long hours of religious ceremonies and rituals.

Travel 

Chikankari kurtas are also great for travel, especially if you are travelling to a place with hot and humid weather. They are comfortable, breathable, and easy to pack, making them a great option for a vacation or a weekend getaway.

Cultural Events 

Chikan kurtis are an excellent option for cultural events such as dance performances, music concerts, and theatre performances. They are available in a variety of designs and styles and can be complemented by traditional jewellery and accessories.

Maintenance and Care of Chikan Kurtis

A Chikan kurti is a delicate garment that requires proper care and maintenance. It is recommended to hand wash them with a mild detergent and cold water. Here are some maintenance and care instructions for your Chikan kurtis:

• Wash your Chikan kurti by hand in cool water with a gentle detergent. The use of a washing machine or dryer can cause irreparable damage to the embroidery.
• Always dry your Chikan Kurti in the shade. Do not expose the fabric to direct sunlight, as this could cause it to degrade.
• While the kurti is still faintly damp, press it on a low heat setting. Use a pressing cloth to safeguard the embroidery.
• Place your Chikankari kurta in a dry, cold location. Don’t hang it. This could cause the fabric to become stretched. Fold it up and place it in a drawer or on a shelf.
• Avoid applying perfume or deodorant directly on your Chikan Kurti, as this can result in discoloration.
• Chlorine and other harsh chemicals should not be used to remove any stain from your Chikan Kurti. You should instead take it to a dry cleaner who specializes in delicate fabrics.
• Hot water and bleach can cause irreparable damage to embroidery. 
• To preserve the embroidery, it is also recommended to iron the kurti on the reverse side.

Conclusion 

Lucknowi Chikankari is a type of hand embroidery that is unique to India. From the Mughal era to today, it endures as a symbol of fashion, style and grace. It has a lot of different stitching styles that take many years of hard work to learn. The needlework, also called chikankari, requires a lot of discipline, attention to detail and skill which is passed down through generations. That’s why Chikankari is the precious art of Lucknow. 

In recent times, Chikan Kurtis have become even more popular because of their versatility for various occasions. Whether it’s college girls looking for a chic comfortable outfit or a working woman who wants the right balance between fashion and comfort, Chikan Kurtis are wardrobe essentials for all. 

At Parinita you would find one of the largest collections of Chikan Kurtis online. So, go ahead and add a chikankari kurta to your wardrobe today!